A bee’s sting holds on and attaches itself to the affected area. When a bee tries to pull away from the person it stings it dies as a result to its abdomen tearing from the rest of its body.
The bee’s venom sac slowly releases venom into the wound; forcing the human body to react by liberating fluid that contains histamine from the blood to clean the venom from the area.
Swelling and redness usually occurs at the sting site causing the area to feel tender for several days after the sting.
If an individual has previously experienced a bee sting by a certain species of bee, a heightened response occurs, resulting in a larger swelling at the sting site.
The sting site may swell and itch as it begins to heal. It is advised to refrain from scratching the site to prevent bacteria from infecting the wound and causing a secondary infection.
The first thing you should do before you begin to treat a bee sting is get away from the bees. When bees sting they release an “alarm pheromone” to alert the other bees within the colony that they are being threatened to join the attack.
Further, once you are safely away from the bees, remove the sting quickly as possible. The longer the sting remains in the wound, the more venom that is injected into the wound and the more intense the resulting reaction.
To achieve this use your fingernail, a knife or a credit card to pinch the sting or scrape it off. Be sure to wash the site thoroughly with soap and water after the sting is removed.
In addition, apply antibiotic ointment and a sterile bandage on top; followed by ice for 20 minutes per hour to reduce pain and swelling. You can take an antihistamine for itching and/or ibuprofen or acetaminophen for pain relief.
Medical attention is advised for bee stings if you are experiencing any of the following:
Firstly, if you find that you have previously experienced an allergic reaction to a bee sting. Further, if you are experiencing more than 10 stings at one time, especially in children and the elderly.
You should seek out medical attention if the sting occurred in the mouth or throat, especially in children and if you find the sting occurred on the eyeball itself. If you find you are having redness greater than 10 inches across or notice signs of an infection that consists of increasing pain, swelling, redness, drainage of pus, and fever; please seek out medical attention.
Many are hypersensitive to bee stings, a condition known as “anaphylaxis.”
Anaphylaxis is a severe allergic reaction to bee or wasp sting. Allergic reactions to stings, can develop anywhere on the body and can range from non-life-threatening reactions, such as hives, swelling, nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, and headaches to life-threatening reactions, such as anaphylactic shock, unconsciousness, difficulty breathing, and blockage of the airway.
It is recommended that these individuals carry an adrenaline kit with them and should seek medical attention immediately after being stung, even if the kit is used.
A bee’s nest should not be removed unless it is a danger to humans. If it is determined that a nest must be removed it is always recommended to call a pest control professional who can determine the best insecticides to use and the best method of application.
As many of you know bedbugs are infesting homes nationwide. Well, if you didn’t know, here’s your warning. Bedbugs are a nearly microscopic nocturnal pest that will easily go undetected if you are not allergic to their bites. Prior to discussing prevention and elimination techniques, I’m going to give you a quick tidbit of background information.
Bedbug Fact vs. Fiction:
1)- When a bedbug bites you they inject an anesthetic to numb the area, resulting in a relatively painless bite (or meal if you see it from the bedbug’s eyes).
FACT: Sorry folks, but this is definitely true. Bedbugs release a numbing agent that allows them to feast without their host feeling a thing.
2)- Characteristic of their name, bedbugs are only found in your bed/mattress.
FICTION: Bedbugs often reside in mattresses and are more commonly found in box springs. They retreat to dark, protected areas during the daylight and are drawn to human hosts at night.
Bedbugs can also be found under carpets, in your electric outlets, in cracks and crevices around your home, and on other furniture, including plastic chairs.
3)- Bedbugs are transported by their human host, similar to head lice.
FICTION: Bedbugs do not travel on their preferred host. However, they may hitch a ride from them. That’s right, bedbugs will frequently broaden their horizons by attaching to an article of clothing, material, or piece of furniture that is being taken or carried out of the room or house.
4)- Bedbugs should be called “modern day vampires”; they suck your blood and feed at night.
FACT: Well whether they should be called modern day vampires may not be fact but it is true that they suck your blood and feed at night. Bedbugs are nocturnal meaning that they prefer to leave their dark little corners at night and attract to their hosts.
These blood-sucking parasites are attracted primarily to the carbon dioxide and warmth that the human body gives off. Prior to feeding on their host these pests are flat, oval-shaped and brown. After feeding, these insects will fill up, expanding a few times their original size and changing to a dark red color.
5)- This blood-sucking parasite is one of the easier pests to detect and eliminate.
FICTION: They are, in fact, one of the most difficult home-dwelling pests for residents and professionals to detect and eliminate. Full grown bedbugs will reach approximately 5mm in length and often hide during the day. Their prime feeding time is during early morning hours, when most humans are in their deepest stages of sleep. Bedbugs have 7 stages in their lifecycle from egg to adult. Due to their various life stages and microscopic size, they are most efficiently detected by human or k-9 inspection. Inspection is only one of the first, yet essential, steps to a successful elimination program. Elimination can be very difficult for residents and licensed professionals because without thorough inspection one will never know if any of the little guys hitched a ride into the next room.
6)- Small specks of blood and fecal stains found on your sheets are a clear sign of bedbugs.
FACT: RED FLAG!!! These guys WILL leave behind left-overs from their meal. You got it! The barely visible black specks are the blood and fecal stains left behind by your nighttime pest. Go! Go check your sheets!
7)- Bedbug bites are small, red bumps. You’ll know them if you see them.
FICTION: Not all individuals will have the same reaction to the bite of this pesky parasite. In fact some people will have no reaction at all. Hence, another reason why the presence of a bedbug infestation may be overlooked or mistaken.
If you are having an allergic reaction to the bite you may notice varied degrees of size and redness. Some bites may have a small red dot in the center or even appear in clusters.
8)- I can eliminate my bed bug problem with home remedies, over the counter spray, or plastic mattress covers.
FICTION: As aforementioned, bedbugs are one of the most difficult pests to detect and control. Using a home remedy or over the counter product may not target all of the pests and therefore send them into hiding.
Without a thorough inspection by a trained professional it is unlikely that all infected areas will be properly treated, down to every last bug. Licensed professionals can provide a checklist of preventive measures for the resident to help ensure that the professionally administered treatment will be effective.
Placing a bedbug protective mattress cover on your mattress AFTER treatment will help prevent re-infestation. DO NOT place this mattress cover on your bed if you think that you have an infestation. You will simply be giving the best a protected enclosed area to dwell and thrive; I don’t think you want that.
9)- These pesky little blood-suckers reproduce at rapid rates, infesting your home like cockroaches.
FACT: Yes, that’s right! These bed-dwelling insects are capable of reproducing at greater rates than the dreaded cockroach. I bet you haven’t heard that one before. A female cockroach will generally produce about 2 to 3 hundred eggs in her lifetime.
A bedbug, on the other hand, is capable of laying several hundred eggs, averaging 5-10 per day. An egg will develop into a full adult within approximately one month. And you guessed it, one month later those ten are laying ten of their own.
The spread of bedbugs is not a joke. The rapid rate of reproduction increases the possibility of infestation, especially in the absence of early detection. So move aside roaches, we have a new epidemic in town!
10)- Pesticides alone are the most effective elimination techniques.
FICTION: Surprise! The true solution to your bedbug problem is here in your neighborhood and that is EXPERIENCE. There are many methods of Bed Bug Control but none of them will be effective if not administered correctly.
If I were you I would give Positive Pest Management a call at 1(800)294-3130 or visit them at https://positivepest.net for more information ad/or an inspection.
Believe me, I know bedbugs can be a royal pain. I hope I was able to provide you all with some useful information. So if you suspect that bedbugs are haunting your home at night, be bedbug smart. Call Positive Pest!
The Indian meal moth is considered a good looking moth that has a long wing expansion of about 5/8 inches. The wings are usually grey, with the rear half of the wing a reddish brown, a rusty grey, bronze with a cooper luster.
This wing pattern distinguishes the Indian meal moths from other household moths. Adults are usually found resting on the grain surface or grain bin walls. These pests fly at night and are found around lights.
A mature female is capable of laying 100 to 300 eggs on food material. Their eggs are very small, appear whitish and have an oval shape. In groups of about twelve to thirty, eggs are deposited on the grain surface. Larvae begin to hatch between two to fourteen days.
Newly hatched larvae are small and difficult to see without a microscope. They feed on fine materials within the grain and are small enough to pass through a sixty mesh screen. The larger larvae are yellow, green, or pink. Fully grown larvae are measured at about one half to five eights of an inch in length with a brown head capsule.
The larval stage lasts from two weeks to one year. Larvae are not capable of chewing through packages so they usually enter through holes. They are usually seen feeding off of grain germ on the top of one to two inches of the bag.
The Indian meal moth can infest and are found feeding off of a wide range of dry foods such as dry pet food, birdseed, cereal, dried soup mixes, bread, pasta, rice, flour, spices, dried spices, dried fruits and nuts to name a few.
Like other insects, moths and butterflies have four wings, six legs, and a jointed body divided into three sections—head, thorax, and abdomen. These pests can be detected by their silken threads found wherever they crawl.
When mature, larvae will spin a silken cocoon and manifest into a light brown pupae. Loose clinging webbing on the grain is a big indicator of an infestation.
If the temperature permits, the Indian meal moth can survive and reproduce. A typical life cycle from egg to adult takes about twenty eight days under optimal conditions.
With a temperature of 50 degrees, a potential for seven to nine generations per year is capable. However, during the winter months fewer generations are able of completing their life cycle due to the cold temperatures.
To rid your home of the Indian meal moth you must firstly inspect and identify all infestation’s food sources. Make sure to give attention to items that have been stored in your kitchen for a long period of time or have not been closed or sealed properly.
After you empty all your cabinets, check and clean them. Further, throw out any food that could be infested. Make sure to properly clean with soap and water any food that could have spilled while emptying the cabinets. In addition, clean the cracks, corners, behind appliances, behind picture frames and between shelves of your cabinets; there could be larvae or pupae still hiding there.
Check for walking larvae on the ceiling of your cabinets or pantry. It is very important to seal glass or plastic containers to prevent any further infestation. Lastly, if you want to rid your home of the Indian meal moth safely and fast, call a pest control professional.
The Palmetto Bug is a commonly used nickname for the American cockroach. Many refer to the Palmetto bug as water bug, flying water bug and the Bombay canary.
The palmetto bug earned its nickname because it likes to hide under the safe and shaded leaves of palm trees. These pests were accidentally introduced to the United States through trade with Africa. These pests are reddish brown in color, 1” to 1 ½ in size, and have six legs.
Palmetto bugs are not known to bite people. However, in extreme infestations, cockroaches have been known to nibble on people when there is no other food available. Palmetto bug bites are not serious and should cause nothing more than a small red mark.
Their diet consists of both plants and meat. These pests carry a variety of disease-causing pathogens from their tendency to hide in unsanitary areas like sewers and drains, and eat decaying food scraps and animals. Further, these cockroaches can easily contaminate kitchen counters, clean dishes and food.
Also, the most common illnesses people get from palmetto bugs are digestive diseases. These symptoms include vomiting, stomach cramps and diarrhea. Many have complained of experiencing allergic reactions to cockroaches or their shed skins and droppings. Allergic reactions to cockroaches include sneezing, rashes and even asthma attacks.
Palmetto bugs are known to live in large groups, sometimes in the hundreds or thousands. They hide in safe places that are damp and dark. They are known to find shelter under palm leaves, in hollow trees, among shrubs and in woodpiles.
Furthermore, these pests like to hide within the foundation of your house, near your pool, in your sprinkler system and even under your roof shingles. These cockroaches are usually active at night; this is when palmetto bugs search for food. They will eat almost anything whether its food scraps in the garbage or the glue from bookbindings.
They seem to like sweet and starchy foods. Palmetto bugs are known to live for 2 to 3 months without food and a month without water.
The female is likely to make one egg capsule of 14 to 16 eggs each week and can lay anywhere from 15 to 90 capsules in a lifetime. The egg capsule is less than a half inch long and dark brown.
The female will usually hide it in a safe place near food. The egg will hatch in less than two months. The nymphs are a grayish brown when they first hatch and will continue to darken and get more brown as they molt. They will molt 9 to 13 times before it becomes an adult. These pests can live for a year and sometimes longer.
From all the cockroaches that frequently invade houses, palmetto bugs are the largest. These reddish brown cockroaches can grow as long as 1.5 inches or more. Both males and females have wings.
When outside conditions are found unsuitable, these insects will migrate indoors and that’s when you find palmetto bugs in your home. These pests like to hide in dark, moist spaces like basements, sewers, crawl spaces, drains, and near the bathtub or garbage can. They usually stay hidden during the day, you may not notice a problem until there is a big infestation.
Some of the many signs of a palmetto bug infestation to look out for include a distinct musty smell; look for chew marks on curtains, stamps, envelopes and bookbindings. Palmetto bugs love to eat anything with glue or starch. Another sign of a palmetto bug infestation to look out for are shed skins and droppings, that look like pepper flakes, in cracks and crevices around your home.
If you are experiencing a Palmetto bug infestation call a pest control professional who has the education to identify your pest problem. Lastly, find a pest control professional that has the equipment and skills to effectively address your bug problem.
An informative list of Flea Extermination FAQs
1)- Is there more than one type of flea?
Yes! In fact, there are thousands of species of fleas thriving in homes and fur coats worldwide. The two most common types of fleas that affect the human species are the cat flea and dog flea. The dog flea, however, seems to have a preference for outdoor hosts as opposed to human hosts.
2)- What do fleas look like?
Fleas are extremely tiny; their small size and dark color make them very difficult to detect. An adult cat and/or dog flea will often be as small as 1/12 of an inch. They are dark-colored (i.e., dark brown), have 3 pairs of legs, and do not have wings. The appearance of a flea will transform from a hairy larva to a folded up version of a flat, dark-brown adult flea. When looking directly at a flea it may appear as it has been flattened.
3)- Are domestic pets always the preferred host of a flea?
Domestic pets are the preferred host of a flea, yes, however they are not ALWAYS the preferred host. Although these house infesting pests have become orally equipped to puncture the skin of an animal, as well as suck their blood (both genders feed on blood), in times of need they will feed on an alternate host. When their preferred host is absent, a population of hungry fleas will accumulate and feed off of almost any warm-blooded host that is present. Due to their preference for the blood of your pets and outdoor rodents, it is possible and common for humans to co-exist with their pets’ pests, with the exception of an occasional bite.
4)- How do I identify a flea bite on myself or another family member?
The most common site of flea bites on a human are generally on their legs and ankles. They will leave 2 or 3 bites in a row that will appear as small red spots. A flea bite is distinctly identified by a light-colored dot in the center of the red bite. This dot is the site where the flea punctured the human’s skin. These bites rarely swell and will only bleed if the mark is being irritated or scratched. However, beware because human reactions to a flea bite will vary by person; some individuals will develop severely irritated spots while other individuals will have no reaction.
5)- How do I know if my loving pet is harvesting an infestation?
Luckily enough, flea infestations on your loving pet can often be easily identified by the pet-owner. Pets will commonly display signs of constant scratching and biting at themselves. The animal’s skin may become irritated and their fur may become roughened. Irritation of the skin, itchiness, and the presence of a rash are believed to be caused by secretions that the pest injects into their host while feeding.
6)- Can these blood-suckers transmit disease?
Due to their lack of host specificity and continual feeding habits, the potential spread of disease-causing organisms increases significantly for these insects. The risk of transmission from animals to human may also be maximized by environments such as parks and wildlife facilities. Some common pathogens that may be transmitted include plague-causing organisms, typhus-causing organisms, and tapeworms. Rodents foster plague-causing organisms that can be passed on to the human species by the oriental rat flea (Xenopsylla cheopis). Cats and dogs, on the other hand, are more likely to transmit tapeworms which they acquire by ingesting adult fleas with larval tapeworms (https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g7380).
7)- How do I prevent, protect, and treat my home for an infestation?
There are multiple stages in the life cycle of a flea including egg, larva, pupa, and adult. In order to effectively control fleas it is important to consider all stages of the fleas life cycle, as they may be found on or off of a pet and inside or outside of the home.
Here are some tips on how to prevent and treat your home for a flea infestation…
Prevention:
-Regularly treat your pet with a veterinarian recommended product.
Protection:
-Regularly wash all bedding, rugs, and material that your pet has frequent access to. Just because your pet has been treated does not mean that the area in which the pet hangs out in is flea free.
-Use a flea comb when grooming your pet.
-Regularly bathe your pet (soap is very effective at killing fleas when it is left on for several minutes).
-Ensure that wild animals are not inhabiting your home or surrounding areas by eliminating food sources and sealing off all attics, holes, and roof entrances to your home.
Treatment:
-Immediately call a licensed pest control company (I recommend: Positive Pest Management) to ensure a thorough identification, inspection, and treatment.
-As hosts move around their residence, fleas fall off. These loose eggs will hatch and develop into new fleas that can re-infest your poor pet. Therefore, it is recommended that you devoutly (meaning once a week!) vacuum your entire residence, particularly your pets’ favorite areas. (However, I WARN you that vacuuming will NOT remove all fleas, this is simply one portion of an integrated treatment program). Also note that vacuum bags should be immediately and tightly sealed and disposed of outside of the home to ensure removal of any pests that may have been removed.
-Larval treatment is key to an effective program! This can often be resolved with the use of spraying and dusting (done by a license professional!). With the use of a chemical treatment that utilizes growth-regulating hormones, a professional will be able to prohibit the larva from turning into a pupa and therefore prohibit the growth of new adult fleas (https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef602).
Hope I was able to answer some of your most important questions and prepare you for any future pest needs…
I suggest you give Positive Pest Management a call at 1(800)294-3130 or visit them at https://positivepest.net for more information ad/or an inspection.
Yours Pest-free,
Christina
@ positive pest
Now is the Best Time to Fight A Rodent Invasion!
The Rodent problem in New York City is undeniable. To make matters worse, New York City rats are busier during the winter than at any other time of the year.
Rats are looking to get out of the cold while scavenging for food. If they find their way into your building, they will damage drywall, gnaw through wiring creating a fire hazard and start to breed.
The best time to fight the rats is before they get in.
Positive Pest Management offers pest and rodent exclusion services! We will come to your building or facility and do a complete inspection finding all of your building vulnerabilities. We find the places that the pests and rodents can get into your building such as through cracks in the foundation or spaces around pipes leading into your property.
We will also make recommendations regarding conditions that will increase your chances of having a problem, such as trees against the building or placement of garbage bins or storage facilities.
If you already had a rodent issue, Positive Pest Management has the experience and skill to handle any extermination situation related to rats or mice. Typically, these pests are controlled with traps, baits, as well as rodent exclusion, which helps to reduce places where they can harbor.
Operated by Benett Pearlman who is a former 10-year Regional Director of the New York State Pest Management Association. Positive Pest Management specializes in commercial, residential, and industrial properties. We’re in the trenches everyday, trouble shooting on site and committed to permanently solving all your pest problems in a cost-effective manner.
Active flea season depends on where you live; some places have to contend with them year round while others get to take a break during the cold winter months.
Fleas can survive in a dormant state under the right conditions, such as in cold weather. Just because fleas aren’t actively bothering you or your dog during the winter, be aware they may still be present, waiting for the right opportunity.
A single flea has the ability to bite your dog or cat more than 400 times in a single day, consuming more than its body weight of your pet’s blood. A female flea can lay hundreds of eggs on your unsuspecting pet, making him the unwitting host of many future flea generations.
The first step to eradicating fleas from your home is to treat the source of the problem. Most flea infestations stem from pets. Your cat or dog might have caught fleas while running around the yard, or from other animals during boarding or a play date.
Further, a common indication that your pet has caught fleas is witnessing them repeatedly scratching and grooming themselves. This is caused by the discomfort of the flea activity as the adult fleas feed on your pet’s blood. Be sure to treat your pet first, it makes no sense to treat the entire house if your pet is going to keep bringing fleas in.
Since the neck and tail of your pet are a flea’s favorite areas, try using a flea comb. In addition, drop any fleas you comb off into hot soapy water to kill them.
Your veterinarian can provide a safe flea control treatment for your pet and your climate area. Oral and topical applications start protecting your pet before the flea population begins to increase during the warmer months of “flea season.” Learning how to get rid of fleas ultimately means embracing prevention.
To prepare your home for cleaning be sure to pick up all of the stray items from all carpeted areas of your home. This includes clothes, toys, shoes, boxes, and papers. You want your vacuum to have access to all carpet and flooring throughout the home. Be sure to remove items inside of closets and under the beds as well.
To protect other pets try to remove them from the home such as fish or birds. Be sure to cover aquarium tanks and bird cages, as well as any water dishes or food bowls. Turn off any systems that support the pet’s environment, such as aerators in fish tanks or heat rocks in reptile tanks. Ideally, you should do this when the entire family is also out of the house.
Before you move in for the kill, take a walk through every room looking for signs of fleas and their larvae. Fleas in a carpet can look like tiny dark specks which disappear just as quickly as they appeared. Fleas usually congregate in places where your pets sleep the most.
Be sure to monitor your pet’s bedding for flea dirt, the adult flea feces, also can indicate activity. Flea dirt looks similar to coarse ground black pepper and may be seen in pet beds, carpets, rugs and other areas where the animal host rests. These specific breeding grounds need extra attention. Carpets and rugs are usually popular flea locations. Female fleas prefer to lay their eggs on the surface hair of the host.
Shortly after, the eggs drop from the host and if those eggs drop on carpets, bedding or furniture, they become a flea infestation source. Spray carpets and upholstery in the home. Fleas love dark places, so spray under furniture and in crevices. In Addition, some foggers are effective up to seven months, long enough to kill all the life stages of a flea in most cases. You may need to use two to three foggers depending on the size of your home. Also, it is important to invest in a reliable vacuum.
A good vacuum cleaner is very effective at removing flea larvae, pupae, eggs, adults and flea feces. Carefully vacuum under beds and any other furniture that you weren’t able to move. Also, use corner attachments for baseboards, heat vents, floor cracks, carpet edges and room corners. Focusing on the elimination of just the adult fleas is not affective. You will shortly have a new generation of vampires to address.
Vacuuming also helps to get rid of the dried blood and feces, resulting in the removal of the food sources of developing fleas. Further, vacuuming stimulates fleas to leave their cocoon prematurely. Since the cocoon is resistant to insecticides, this is an important step for thoroughly killing fleas. Also, as you vacuum, the nap of the carpet raises up. This makes it easier for insecticides to get deep down into the fibers where stubborn, developing fleas take refuge.
After you complete vacuuming the carpets, continue vacuuming any hardwood floors, linoleum and tiles throughout your home. Then, vacuum furniture, upholstery, cabinets, cushions, pillows and even your bed. It is recommended that you seal the vacuum bag tightly and remove it from the home to prevent the fleas from spreading any further. It is important to repeat this thorough vacuuming every other day until the flea infestation is gone.
To rid your home of fleas it is recommended to call a pest control professional. Positive Pest Control can provide a safe, timely and effective multifaceted treatment plan for your home; addressing both chemical and physical methods.
